lundi 11 avril 2011

Fitting issues

Hello dear readers, how are you? I haven't posted much recently but I've had seamstress block, I can't seem to sew a proper thing for me :( Strangely enough I had no problem making garments for relatives but for me it just didn't work! That is, until I dug Butterick B4985 out of my stash:

What a cutie! A quick look at some sewing blogs later and I was definitely convinced, I had to sew this one. As I'm rather wary of non vintage US patterns when it comes to the fit I made a muslin. The result is quite satisfying except for my usual sway back problem. Here's what I did to try and solve this issue:

I pinched 1.3/4" of excess fabric in the middle lower back piece and removed 3/4" along the upper piece seam line. Now that's when I need your help: are these alterations enough? Should I alter something else? I wear a lot of loose tops so it's difficult for me to say if this above is correctly fitted :( Also please look at my modified pattern pieces:

That piece n°6 now has a sharp angle at the back seam, is it ok or should I reduce the sharpness by sharing the extra centimeters like this:

And of course I guess I have to make up for the 1.3/4" I removed by adding the same amount at the hem of my modified pieces like this:

I could really use your help so please share your advice in the comments! Thanks!

5 commentaires:

  1. Ooh, I can't wait to see how this turns out! I'm planning on making the exact same view as you! (you can see my fabric choice here: )
    I'm planning on finishing up my current project and then starting on this one :)
    I'd love to know any tips you have. The construction doesn't look too bad (I think I understand the instructions at least :S ), but this will be my first shirt. It doesn't look like you have any other fit issues, lets hope I'll be as lucky! :D
    Ashley x

  2. My suggestion would be to on the modified pieces 5 and 6, walk the seamlines (not the cutting lines) and see if they match up. If they do, great! If they don't you are going to have to add length to one and subract length from the other. Then I would probably do what you you posted and remove the "sharpness" as you described above.

    I'm no expert (yet), but that is what I would do. Good luck!

  3. Thank you girls, Rebecca I've prepared a new muslin using the modified pieces and I plan to sew it tomorrow, I'll post about it then!
    Lisette if I'm not mistaken a sway back is when you're back is too arched, it looks like an "S" from the side.
    Ashley good luck on sewing your first shirt, you chose wisely because this B4985 really is a simple and straightforward design :)

  4. Nice top choice. You need to straighten the centre back seam, and measure the distance from the new centre back to the edge of the tissue pattern (probably 1-2cm). The you need to subtract this from the side seams instead, and then redraw the curve. Hope that makes sense. You also need to add at the hem as you mentioned.Hope that helps.